Entree: Wallis and Futuna – National Cuisine – umu (earth oven)

Food safety reminder: Follow safe food-handling practices and use a food thermometer to verify safe internal cooking temperatures.

Serving Size: 6

Approximate Time

Prep 40 min

Cook 3 hrs

Total 3 hrs 40 min

Ingredients

1 whole chicken, approx. 3 lb (1.4 kg)
2 whole reef fish (snapper selected as the example), approx. 1.5 lb (680 g) each, gutted and scaled (estimated edible portion: 610 g)
2 tbsp (30 ml) lime juice
2 tsp (10 g) sea salt, divided
1 tsp (5 g) freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup (120 ml) coconut cream
1/2 cup (120 ml) coconut milk
2 tbsp (30 ml) grated fresh ginger
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 small onion, sliced (about 4 oz / 115 g)
2 tbsp (30 ml) soy sauce (selected optional alternative)
2 tbsp (30 ml) vegetable oil
2 lb (900 g) taro roots, scrubbed
2 lb (900 g) sweet potatoes (selected alternative), scrubbed
2 medium breadfruit, peeled and cut into chunks, total approx. 3 lb (1.4 kg) (estimated edible portion: 1400 g)
6 green plantains (selected alternative), peeled (for cooking) (estimated edible portion: 600 g)
6–8 banana leaves, cleaned and wilted over heat
Hot rounded stones, enough to cover a 2–3 ft pit
Charcoal (selected fuel option) for building the fire
Kitchen twine or strips of banana leaf for tying parcels
Fresh cilantro (selected optional garnish)

Instructions

1. Dig a 2–3 ft (60–90 cm) wide pit. Build a fire with charcoal and heat rounded stones for 45–60 minutes, until very hot. Carefully clear away ash while leaving the hot stones in the pit. Clean the banana leaves and wilt them briefly over heat until pliable.
2. Rub the chicken and fish with the lime juice, 1 tsp (5 g) of the salt, black pepper, half the garlic, half the ginger, and 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the coconut cream. Marinate for 20–30 minutes. Toss the sliced onion with the remaining garlic and ginger, the soy sauce if using, and the vegetable oil.
3. Par-cook the dense roots: roast the taro and sweet potatoes at 350°F (175°C) for 20–25 minutes, or simmer them for 10 minutes. Drain if simmered. This shortens their cooking time in the umu.
4. Prepare separate parcels on banana leaves. Divide the breadfruit, taro, sweet potatoes, and plantains among parcels; add some onion mixture and drizzle with coconut milk. Place the chicken and fish in separate parcels, adding some aromatics and a spoonful of the remaining coconut cream to each. Wrap the parcels securely and tie them with kitchen twine or banana-leaf strips. Divide the remaining salt among the parcels as needed.
5. Arrange a bed of hot stones in the pit. Place the parcels in a single layer on the stones, then cover them with another layer of hot stones. Cover the stones with a thick layer of banana leaves, then seal the pit with sacks or earth to trap steam.
6. Cook for 2–3 hours, checking toward the end of the cooking period. Carefully uncover the pit and remove the parcels with suitable tools. Check that the chicken is fully cooked, reaching 165°F (74°C) at its thickest part, and that the fish is opaque and flakes easily (or reaches 145°F / 63°C). Check that the roots and breadfruit are tender; return any parcel that is not done to the pit and continue cooking.
7. Open the parcels and transfer the chicken, fish, and vegetables to a large platter. Spoon any coconut cooking juices over the food, garnish with cilantro if desired, and serve family-style.